True Romance or Illusion or Both?

Fall in love, fall out of love, see with clear eyes. That was my journey with San Carlos our first three weeks here. The warmth, the beautiful skies, mountains, and ocean along with some of the most beautiful and seemingly affordable housing we'd seen in a long, long time, captivated us. We floated around in what seemed a daydream for about a week.

As with all good things, the imperfections soon intruded. During our second week, we clearly accepted that eating out was not going to be much of an option for us as vegans. Everything on most menus contained dairy or meat or both. Even our cobbled together meals (sides of beans, tortillas, tomatoes, avocado, if those things were available) at restaurants left us wanting more. We kept concluding that we could do much better at home, both price-wise and with taste and wholesomeness.

Of course the disparity between rich and poor, working class and wealthier kept hitting us in the face. The women and men that work at Totonaka RV where we stay work long, hard hours. Their pay? Fourteen U.S. dollars per day. Not per hour, but per day. And yet there are mansions sprinkled all over this Mexican tourist village. In fact, it is rumored that the once wealthiest man in the world, Carlos Slim, owns a home in San Carlos.

The starkness of the residuals - from the 2007 Great Recession and the consequences of U.S. media's reporting of violence and disease potential in Mexico slowed tourism and cast shadows throughout San Carlos. Defunct resorts, expensive homes that have sat empty for years, one failed business after another. The economic recovery has not returned to San Carlos, not in an appreciable way.

Inhabited beachfront condos alongside skeleton of defunct construction
 there since 2007 Recession.

But still we are able to attain food, clothing and shelter for ourselves at a reasonable, if not “cheap” price. And regardless as to the economy, local people are friendly and helpful.

Firearms are illegal in San Carlos so people don't have to worry about a mass shooting or being robbed at gunpoint every day. Having access to health care through the socialized medical system also allows people peace of mind. These things benefit the traveler to this state of Sonora, Mexico also.

Even with the problems here; big potholes in roads, unexpected water and electricity shut offs, lots of empty storefronts, rundown infrastructure, San Carlos offers a quality way of life for expats from Canada and the U.S., while giving locals opportunities for work in the service and product industries that support the foreigners.

Knowing both sides, John and I researched buying a RV space in a nice development that we could return to in future winters. During our third week, we actually made a low-ball offer (its a buyer's market) on a little cottage plus covered RV pad in the Tecalai development next door. It was not accepted. Excited by the potential here, after the rejection of our offer, there was disappointment but we regroup, dream and continue to research possibilities.

Many little cottages plus RV spaces at Tecalai development.

The exercise of learning about real estate buying and selling in Mexico was well worth the effort. We found that its really quite simple and safe to purchase real estate here, as long as one maintains the same degree of wariness as in the countries to the north when making a property purchase.

The exercise also helped us to clarify more fully how, and where, we want to spend our retirement. YouTube videos made by foreigners who have moved to Mexico to spend their retirement were enlightening. We see, hear, and experience that it is safe and economical to live in Sonora, Mexico. It never hurts to learn that you have more options than you already know. All this makes me feel freer. Freer to imagine and freer to act.

It's been an exciting first month in San Carlos. We've walked beautiful beaches, been warmed daily by a bright sun, met interesting people from many parts of the world, actively engaged in learning Spanish, continued fully on our plant-based whole foods journey, dipped our toes into buying real estate in Mexico and I've connected with a vibrant artists' group here. I wonder what our next three months in Mexico will reveal?

Pelicans at La Manga Fishing Village

Real Time San Carlos

Hola! ¿Cómo estás?

The many ways to say “Hello. How are you?” in Spanish are all jumbled up in my head.

¿Cómo está usted?

¿Cómo estás?

¿Cómo estás hoy?

Buenas dias.

Buenos tardes.

Hola.

It seems simple enough. They are just a few basic words.

But departing from automatic speak when I greet someone ain't an easy feat. I must stop my usual response, think about what I want to say in Spanish, remember the person's name that I want to say “good day” to, think about whether its morning (dias) or afternoon (tardes), and get my Spanish phrases in mind before I speak. Then after successfully (or not) saying what I want to say, time to listen to and translate their response. Then the same thing all over again. Figure out what I want to say next. I don't have to tell you that it can be exhausting.

Beautiful decorations on homes next door to RV park.

House decoration at Tecalai next door 

John and I just finished our fourth Spanish lesson in two weeks. It's fun and frustrating. Fun because its a time to play language(s) games with the instructor, Carolina, and with the other students. Frustrating because I want to already say and understand so much more with the Mexican people I encounter each day in San Carlos.

Luckily you don't have to know the language in a foreign county to enjoy its sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and textures. And we experience plenty of all those each day.

Almost daily since arriving in this seaside town three weeks ago, I've walked from our campsite at Totonaka RV Park to the small development next door for a stroll with my dogs, Gingee and Charlie. The lusciously painted houses with their artsy doors and windows, the clean cobblestone streets, the brightly colored bougainvillea bushes, and the attractive clubhouse and pool area have fueled much fantasizing by me and John of having our own little winter getaway place there.

We're sorting through whether we want to return in winters to come.

The small homes at Tecalai are full of charm and character.

Each day, we find one more item that we thought was not to be found here in San Carlos. Yesterday it was our first trip to the farmacia (pharmacy) where we saw they have familiar cosmetics and toiletries, and medicines for everything we might need. We also discovered the little specialty grocer (Santa Rosa Mercado) where the shelves were stocked with items that make us gringos happy – a loaf of freshly baked sourdough bread, Quaker old fashioned oats, almond milk and more. Not only that, the owner goes to Tucson, Arizona regularly and will bring back items for you if they don't already have them in the store. That's service!

John exploring the artistry at Sagitario Arts and Crafts.

I have reached the point in our stay where I am ready to settle into some creative work with my painting, writing and videography. The challenge is that it's hard for me to focus in our little RV with John and the dogs continuously coming and going. So I began a search for artist studio space, at a reasonable rate. A space close enough to walk to would be great. I'm on the hunt! We will be here for another three months give or a take a week or two, so definitely worth the effort to find. 

Buenas noches and holiday wishes to everyone as you gear up for the month of celebrations.

Yummy Plant-based Dinner

Red Lentil Maranara Over Polenta and Spiraled Zucchini.
A completely plantbased vegan meal. 

I had several requests for this recipe after posting the picture on Facebook.  So here it is!

Red Lentil Maranara (for a 100% plant-based meal)

created by Chef John  (Inspired by The Happy Pear)

Makes approximately 3 quarts (or litres)

2 Tbs vegetable or olive oil

1 medium onion (diced)

4 cloves garlic (fine chopped)

1 green bell pepper (diced)

1 red bell pepper (diced)

2 – 12 oz. cans whole tomatoes and juice (chopped)

1 cup chopped kale

1 cup red lentils

1 cup vegetable broth

1 cup chopped mushrooms

3 Tbs tamari sauce (or soy sauce)

2 Tbs pure maple syrup

2 Tbs Italian seasoning

2 Tbs oregano

1 tsp paprika

salt to taste

(optional) 1/3 cup red wine

1. Brown onion, garlic in large sauce pan or Instant Pot.
2. Add chopped peppers to saute.
3. Add remainder of ingredients to pot, stir and adjust liquid to allow sauce to simmer.
4. Add more vegetable stock as needed during cooking.
5. Simmer until lentils are soft (we cooked for hours)
6. Serve over pasta, rice, polenta, potatoes or whatever the hell you want.
7. Serve with a chapped salad and citrus-based dressing.

Citrus-based Dressing

created by Chef Levonne

Juice of several small limes.

1 Tbs of olive oil

1 Tbs of vegan mayonnaise

pinch of chili powder

pinch of salt

Combine all ingredients well and pour over chopped jicama, fresh tomato, avocada salad up to 20 minutes before serving.

Enjoy!

Getting to Know You. Getting to Know All About You.

Boom dockers camp out near San Francisco Beach (for free if you don't know the meaning of boondock).

Our first week in San Carlos was filled with exploration and getting ourselves set up for maximum comfort. I was excited by all the newness, overwhelmed by securing matters of food, clothing, and shelter while dealing with language differences, but mostly soothed by the warm, sunny weather.

Within three days of our arrival, we shopped at the local grocery store, bought fresh fruits and vegetables from Freddy the veggie vendor right at Totonaka RV park where we camp, signed up for regular fresh drinking water delivery to our trailer, walked around Marina San Carlos and five-mile San Francisco beach (where several RVers boon-docked in their rigs), and met up with Mary Ann, our neighbor from Surfside (on Vancouver Island) at her Tecalai (a housing development) home next door. I also checked out Athleticlub San Carlos for yoga classes and Galeria Bellas Artes San Carlos for local art and artists.

What struck me most in those first three days was:

• the beauty of the area with its pointy, rocky hills and mountains, some of which sweep down to the ocean's shoreline,

John and the dogs take a walk at Algodones Beach.

A taco at home costs less than a dollar. Fresh tortilla made
 with vegetable oil, avocado, salsa, tomato, cilantro,
lettuce, pintos (cooked in slow cooker at home), and
a squeeze of lime served with Chilean wine
 ($7 U.S. per bottle). 

• the bountifulness of fruits and vegetables at amazingly low prices,

• the friendliness of the Mexican people,

• the abundance of things to do – walking, hiking, bicycling, kayaking, boating, making art, sightseeing, photography, learning Spanish, going out to eat, shopping, and relaxing by the pool or at our trailer,

• the beauty of the homes which can, by the way, be bought for relatively low prices, and

• the wealthy resorts marred by decaying, half constructed casualties of the 2008 Great Recession.

This beautiful little two-bedroom home with a "margarita deck on the roof"
 at Tecalai Development next door for less than U.S. $150,000.

Freddy stops by Totonaka RV on Tuesdays at 4:30 with a great
assortment of fresh fruits and veggies for sale. Easy shopping!

A pretty good beginning to our winter season!

San Carlos, Here We Are!

John, and I rolled into San Carlos (Sonora, Mexico) last Sunday evening. Our fifteen-year old GMC truck had towed the twenty-two-foot fifth-wheel trailer reliably for over nine hours from the border crossing at Nogales, Arizona. By the time we arrived at Totonaka RV, we were exhausted and exhilarated!

At one point along our drive, after hours of detours due to road construction work, I said "Maybe we should turn back." I meant it. My rationale was that I'd rather backtrack on the crappy highway we knew than continue to creep the remaining hours over humps and bumps, along shoulderless roads with slow traffic to a place we didn't know. We'd never been to San Carlos before. John kept driving southward.

My culture shock was apparent to me. The contrast between wealth and poverty in the towns along the way made my eyes bulge and my breathing tense. Mansions and modern-looking businesses in the midst of minimally kempt and roughly put-together homes. Huge piles of dirt or gravel on the edges of roadways, even in the middle of towns. Of course the dried grasses, saguaro cactus, and parched earth of the Sonora desert added to a sense of desperation.  Our time in Mexico decades earlier had not had the same culture-shock effect. But I was younger and more flexible back then! Years had made me more comfortable with the known.

All the warnings from Canadian and American family and friends, upon learning we wished to snowbird in Mexico, came rushing back to me. "Be careful." All indications were that North Americans perceived Mexico as a dangerous place. It didn't matter about all the mass shootings of innocents in the U.S. The Mexican intra-drug-world murders and kidnappings seemed much scarier to them.

Long ago I learned to register a warning of any type, then to try to understand it in its context. Mainstream news media have a way of making the little seem large in our minds, especially if a story triggers fear. Decades earlier, when we traveled in Mexico, we learned that many of the people we encountered believed America to be a most violence-loving society. What could we be without all those good old news reports?

I had my own concerns weighing heavily on my mind. Would John and I be able to maintain the plant-based, whole foods shift we'd made from meat and dairy consumption months earlier? Everyone with experience eating out in Mexico said "good luck" when I wondered if we'd find enough food free of animal parts to sustain us.

And of course there was the water issue. How sick could we get from consuming bad bacteria-laden water?

Would we be able to keep our dogs safe? How much unsavory debris would we have to make sure Charlie and Gingee avoided? How bad would the flea and tick problems be? Would they be stolen and sold?

After the friendly and gracious greetings from the Totonaka staff and other campers, we settled into our sweet little RV site. We safely fed and walked the dogs, made dinner with and took showers in clean water. As night approached, I found myself glad that we had not turned around and aborted our Mexico travels. The second half of Hwy 15 had not been as bad as the first half. And Totonaka, though a little rough around the edges, was pleasant and just happened to be filled with other British-Columbian license-plated RVs.

That first night, I slept peacefully even though in the middle of the night, Mexican music blanketed the park like a thick fog. Normally, I hated being awakened by noise at night. But there was genuinely something soothing about the thump thump thump of the music. When I'd had enough listening to it, I drifted back into a deep sleep.

A rough video of a rough drive from 

Nogales, Arizona to

San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico.